Read and think. Write and read. Short small interesting book about the surf and its philosophy. Somehow far from the Point Break cliché. A dive into art, history and surf. From action to reflexion. From surfing to analyzing what makes me surfing. The rebel approach of the 50's ? The fight against something which will always be there after me ? More simply the great feeling it gives ? A mix of a lot of complex things for a simple but genuine pleasure.
